Reference · Medfield
A Thermador range that clicks, or will not light
Continuous clicking from a Thermador cooktop after a boil-over is not a broken igniter — it is the spark circuit doing exactly what it was designed to do, on a signal it should not be getting.
01
The spark circuit and why it will not stop
A sealed-burner cooktop runs its electrodes from one module. Reignition is a safety feature: if a flame is lost, the module fires to relight it. Moisture bridging a single electrode looks exactly like a lost flame, so the module fires — and because one module serves the whole top, every burner clicks, not just the wet one. The fault reads as catastrophic and is usually a drying job.
When drying genuinely does not fix it, the candidates are a cracked ceramic on one electrode, a burner cap seated wrong so the flame sits off the sensing point, food debris in the burner ports, or the module itself. Those are ruled out one electrode at a time, which is tedious and is the only reliable method.
02
Burners that will not go low
Thermador built its reputation on the low end of the burner range, and a burner that once simmered and now hovers or blows out is usually a gas-delivery problem rather than a control one: ports partly blocked, the cap not fully seated after a clean, or the simmer setting on the valve out of adjustment. All three are addressed without parts.
If the house runs on propane rather than natural gas, the orifices and the valve adjustment are different, and a range converted at some point in its life is worth confirming as correctly converted. A conversion done in a hurry shows up years later as a burner that will not simmer and a lazy yellow flame.
A yellow, lifting or sooty flame is a stop-now symptom. Turn the burner off and get a gas-qualified person to it before using the appliance further.
03
The oven half
The oven side follows the same logic as any gas cavity: a glow-bar igniter that has aged draws less current, the safety valve never opens, and the oven does not heat while the igniter still glows. Current, not appearance, is the measurement.
Where the oven heats but bakes badly, the temperature sensor and the door are the two suspects. A resistance probe that has drifted makes the oven hold the wrong temperature confidently; a door that no longer seals at the top loses heat where it matters most. Three cycles with a thermometer on the middle shelf separates them before anyone opens the appliance.
What we take on
Said plainly, before you call.
We do not repair cooking appliances of any make — this is a refrigeration shop, and a Thermador range is outside it. That is why this page explains the fault instead of quoting for it. If there is Sub-Zero refrigeration in the same Medfield kitchen, ring us about that and we will book it.
Booking
Describe the fault. Get the figure before anything opens.
A flat $95 covers the visit and the diagnosis, and comes off the bill when you approve the repair. Visits run 8:00 am – 8:00 pm, seven days; the line is answered 24/7.